Naser Khosrow Ghobadiyani
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Naser Khosrow Ghobadiyani
His name was Abu Moein Hamid Al-Dean Naser Ben Khosrow Ghobadiyani Al-Marwazi. His birthplace was Kabadian, in Marw; he was born in Thee Al-Kaadah in the lunar year 394. He passed away at Dremkan in Darakhshan in the lunar year 481.
After his youth, at the age of forty two he became a well- known writer, then he assumed the post of the royal court.
After his youth, at the age of forty two he became a well- known writer, then he assumed the post of the royal court.
In the first Rabeea of the lunar year 437, Naser went to five Marw Al-Rood villages, and from there he headed towards Jozjanan where he stayed a full month there. One night, he saw a dream, in that dream somebody encouraged him to travel to the holy Kaaba in a fact-finding mission. In the next morning Naser Khosrow determined to head towards Mecca, after he returned from his journey to the holy city he was expelled from his own home by the government of that time, later he died in the lunar year 481.
Naser Khosrow’s journey started from Marw through to Tabriz, Ikhlat, Miafarkeen, Saida, Tyre and finally to Jerusalem. From the last city, Naser headed towards Mecca and Medina then he came back from there to Jerusalem, and later went to Egypt and returned once more to Mecca where he remained there for six months, and finally he returned to Iran via sea.
On Tuesday, the twenty sixth of Jomadi Al-Akhirah in the lunar year 444, Naser Khosrow returned to Balakh, after a journey lasted for six years and seven months and twenty two days, that journey was full of precious notices about his daily seeing and hearings.
Naser Khosrow’s journey is a book that includes precious information about Islamic world at the first half of the fifth lunar century. The following report relates to Mecca and Medina only.
Naser Khosrow’s dilemma:
Abu Moein Hamid Al-Dean Naser Ben Khosrow Ghobadiyani says:
“My profession was writing only, in addition to that I was one of the persons that had authority in dealing with Sultan’s income and in charge of the royal court, I remained at that post for some time, I was well-known among people”.
At the last Rabeea in the lunar year 437, when Abu Suleiman Jafri Ben Mikyal was the prince (the ruler) of Khorasan, I left Marw heading for fifth Marw Al-Ward villages, that day Castor reached Jupiter, I heard that whenever this phenomenon occurs almighty God responds positively to people’s requests, I went to a sacred place where I performed my prayer and asked my God to show me the right path.
When I came to my companions one of them recited a poem in Persian language, I remembered a poem then I asked him to read it for us, he wrote on a paper asking me to the poem, suddenly he explained that poem prior to handing him the paper that included the poem, I became optimistic about that incident, and said to myself that almighty God had achieved my request.
I left that place heading for Jozjanan where I remained for a full month, drinking dates’ water. The grand Prophet (PBUH) said: “Tell the truth even against you”!
One night, I saw someone in the dream telling me that: “This drink you are addicted to shall cost you your mind, you remain awake would be for your good!
I replied: All wise scholars couldn’t find a way better than this to curb worlds grieves and sorrows! He replied: There is no relief and comfort in the unconscious, a wise man can not show people the path to unconscious, but he is asked to encourage them to what increases mind and intelligence.
I said: How could I attain that? He replied: Whoever works hard would gain what he is looking for! Then he pointed towards Kiblah and remained silent!!
When I woke up I was remembering the entire dream’s details, I talked to myself saying: I woke up from last night’s sleep, now I have to wake up from forty years’ sleep!
I decided not to have any rest unless I perform my duties and deeds in a very sincere and good intention.
On Thursday the sixth of Jamadee Al-Akhirah in the lunar year 437, I took a shower and headed for the mosque in order to perform my prayer, I supplicated to the almighty God asking him assistance in performing what is a duty upon me, and refraining from prohibited deeds as he the almighty ordained.
From there I went to Shboorghan where I spent the night in Baryab village, and from there I chose the way to Samankan, Talikan and Marw Al-Ward.
Later, I went to Marw asking to accept my resignation from my post saying:
I intend to go to the sacred Kiblah, and then I paid all my debts deciding to ignore everything in this materialistic world, except what was essential for my journey. On the twenty third of Shaaban I left there heading for Naisapoor, from Marw I reached Sarakhs, I crossed around ninety miles; the distance from Sarakhs to Naisapoor was a hundred and twenty miles.
During that journey, Naser Khosrow went to Mecca several times, his first trip to Mecca started at Jerusalem, he said:
I reached Jerusalem from there, and from that holy city I accompanied a number of individuals who crossed that distance to Hijaz on foot, our guide was a forbearing and a good peripatetic man, his name was Abu Baker Al-Hamadani. On the first half of Thou Al-Keadah of the lunar year 438, I left Jerusalem.
On the third day we arrived at a place called Arar, from there we reached another location, and within ten days we arrived at Mecca in a year that it had received no Hajj caravan from any side of it due to the lack of food supplies in the holy city. We resided in the alley of spice dealers in front of the Prophet’s gate, on Monday we were at Arafat. When I came from Arafat, I stopped two days in Mecca then I went to Jerusalem in my way back to Sham.
On the fifth day of Moharram in the lunar year 439, we arrived at Jerusalem, I did not explain about Mecca and Medina, because I would like to concentrate on the last Hajj journey.
Naser Khosrow went back to Jerusalem and from there he headed for Cairo in Egypt.
“At the beginning of Thee Al-Kaadah I left Egypt, and on the eighth of that lunar month I arrived at Kolzom, from here we embarked the ship, after fifteen days we arrived at a city called Jar, that was on the twenty two of that lunar month, from there, after four days of traveling we reached the city of the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), it is a city adjacent to the desert, its soil was salty and wet, with shortage of water, it had mane palm trees, and the holy Kaaba located to the South of it, Prophet’s mosque resembled the holy mosque in Mecca, Prophet’s grave was located near mosque’s tribune to the north of who stands towards Kaaba, whenever the orator mentioned Prophet’s name he would indicate towards the grave which is a pentagonal house and its walls attached to five pillars of the mosque.
Between the grave and the tribune there was a place covered by marble and dubbed a meadow, people used to say it is a meadow of the Paradise quoting what the Prophet (PBUH) said: Between my grave and my tribune is a meadow of Paradise’s meadows”.
Shies say that Fatima’s grave is located inside her father’s shrine. The mosque had a door towards South of the city where there was a desert and the grave of Hamzah Ben Abdul Motaleb (may God be pleased with him), that site was dubbed as the grave of martyrs.
We spent two days in Medina, due to shortage of time we moved towards East side of the city, there was a mountain and a small valley called Johfah, that place was rendezvous (Mikat) for visitors from Egypt, Sham and Morocco.
At that place visitors would put on Hajj garment, it was said that before Hajj season there were many visitors at that site and suddenly a flood came and killed all of them, for that particular reason this place called Johfah.
The distance between Mecca and Medina is around three hundred miles, but it was smooth, we managed in crossing it on Sunday the sixth of the lunar month Thee Al-Hojah, we arrived at Mecca and resided at Al-Safa gate.
At that particular year, there was drought in Mecca, ten kilograms of wheat was around one Naisapoori Dinar, and all those who were residing on the skirts of Mecca left it and nobody would come to the holy city.
On Wednesday we started Hajj rituals in Arafat by the help of the almighty God, we remained two days in Mecca, a huge number of Mecca’s inhabitants left it seeking refuge and food supplies in other parts of the desert. I would leave Hajj description and Mecca’s conditions to another opportunity, at the other time we remained in Mecca for six months.
From there, Naser Khosrow returned to Egypt, he describes the drought at those years:
“At the lunar month of Rajab in the year 440, Sultan was informed about the drought of that year, and dispatching pilgrims to Hijaz would be risk, at that year no pilgrim went to Hijaz, although it was Sultan’s duty to secure pilgrims and send them to Hajj, but he had his excuses.
At that particular year, there was a person called Kathy Abdullah, he was in Sham, I accompanied him in our way to Kolzom. That time our ship arrived at Jar that was on the twenty fifth of Thee Al-Keada, and Hajj season was so near, the price for a camel was five Dinar, we hurried up to catch the season.
On the eighth of Thee Al-Hijah, we arrived at Mecca with assistance from almighty God, we performed Hajj rituals.
A very big caravan came from Morocco that year, at the gate of Medina Arabs asked some of them to guard the city after they came back from Mecca, a battle erupted between two sides, in that battle more than two thousands of Moroccan pilgrims died, only thirty pilgrims managed to ran away and reach their country. In that Hajj season there were pilgrims from Khorasan, they headed for Sham and Egypt, and from there they reached Medina. On the sixth of Thee Al-Hijah they were off Arafat about three hundred miles, with this regard they said:
“Who could take us to Mecca within three days? We would give forty Dinar for each pilgrim, Bedouins tied them on the camels, they reached Arafat within two and half days, two of them died while four remained alive but in very bad condition. Later, those four pilgrims performed Hajj rituals and returned to Sham, I went back to Egypt because I had some books there, I did not intend to leave that country.
At that year, the governor of Medina came to Egypt, I was with him in the same ship, we reached Kolzom and from there we headed towards Egypt.
Naser Khosrow’s return to Mecca after his visit to Egypt:
I shall explain how I came to Mecca, may God preserve it, from Egypt.
I performed Eid’s prayer in Cairo, and then I moved to the upper highland of Egypt by sea on Tuesday the fourteenth of the lunar month Thee Al-Hijah in the year 441. At that voyage Naser Khosrow crossed Akhmeem, Caws, Aswan and Eathab till he eventually reached Jeddah, explaining what concerns Mecca and the holy Kaaba.
“Jeddah is a big city with well-fortified walls, it is located on the sea and its inhabitants around five thousand individuals, it contains flourishing markets.
The Kiblah of its grand mosque is towards the East, there are no buildings at the suburbs of the city except Prophet’s mosque and two gates one of them towards Mecca at the East and the other towards West on the sea.
If somebody wanted to go to Yemen from the sea shore, he would have to cross around hundred and fifty miles. And if he went to the North he would arrive at Jar city. Jeddah lacks trees and green lands, what it needs of food supplies would reach it from different villages. Distance between Mecca and Jeddah is not far.
The governor of Jeddah and Medina at that time was Taj Al-Maali Ben Abby Al-Fotooh; he was so kind with me that he exempted me from paying taxes. When I was approaching Muslim gate, he wrote to the officials in Mecca asking them not to charge me due to my righteousness as he believed.
Next Friday we left Jeddah, I reached Mecca on Sunday at the end of the lunar month Jamadi Al-Akherah, on the first day of Rajab huge numbers of visitors pour in Mecca from Hijaz and Yemen for performing omra it is an especial season, like Eid of Ramadan. They come for Hajj also, due to the short distance and the easiness of the path.
Mecca, God bless it, is a city surrounded by high mountains, the nearest mountain to the city is Abu Kobais Mountain; it looks like a dome and is located to the East of the city, whoever is in the holy mosque in Mecca in January, and shall see the sun rise from the head of that mountain.
The head of that mountain looks like a stony protruding stick, it was said in history that Abraham (PBUH) made the head of the mountain like that. The holy mosque in Mecca and the adjacent markets and alleys are surrounded by high walls with various gates; the city lacks trees, although there are some high trees near the main gate of the holy mosque that is called Abraham’s gate.
To the East of the holy mosque, there is a big market from North to South, the entrance of that market is near Abu Kobais mountain, at the versant of the mountain there is a very small hill that called Safa, a big number of visitors and pilgrims came here for prayer and supplication, they call this place “Safa and Marwa”. The end of that market located at the North, near Marwa, there are a number of residential houses there, and people ran in that market, from beginning till the end of it, it is an act of omra rituals.
Those who are coming to Mecca from long distances for performing omra rituals have to put on omra garment at a site which is far away about one and half mile from Mecca, of course pilgrims and visitors must put on garment at one of mosques there. After that act, a pilgrim heads towards Mecca repeating the following version: “We comply with your order, there shall be no partner with you, all boon and blessing is from you”.
Those who are in Mecca and intend to perform omra must go to a site that is a mile and half away from the holy mosque and put on omra garment then heads for Mecca, after a pilgrim enters the holy mosque he must circumambulate (Tawaf) for seven rounds, starting from the corner where the black stone is located in contrast to the movement of a watch, then he performs two kneels behind the shrine of Abraham (PBUH), after performing Tawaf, pilgrims head to Zam Zam well in order to have some water of it and to wash their faces, then they leave the holy mosque to perform endeavor (Saai) between Safa and Marwa, there is a market between these two small mountains that is around fifty steps length, Prophet (PBUH) did so during Hajj season.
He ordered Muslims to do so. There two minarets near the market, endeavor is four rounds from Safa to Marwa and three rounds from Marwa to Safa, and therefore the total is seven rounds, during Saai pilgrims read some prayers. When a pilgrim accomplishes his Saai there are some barber shops for shaving pilgrims’ hair in order to be free from ihram. This market is called drug sellers’ market; it contains some nice shops and buildings. There two public baths in Mecca city, their grounds are covered with green stone.
According to my estimation Mecca’s inhabitants are around two thousands individuals, a part of the visitors, in those circumstances the city was experiencing a very bad drought, and the price for forty kilograms of wheat was around one Moroccan Dinar.
In Mecca city, there were residential houses for visitors from Khorasan, Iraq and other Muslim nation, but most of those houses were ruined, Baghdad’s Caliphs built spacious buildings in Mecca, when we arrived there some of those buildings were demolished.
There are wells in Mecca but their water is salty and not potable, for that purpose big ponds were built in order to gather rain water, the price for each pond was ten thousands Dinar, those ponds were empty of water when we were in Mecca. A prince of Eden brought ground water to Mecca, which cost him a substantial amount of money, that water was used for irrigation in Arafat.
In order to save Mecca from flood officials built a dam, and they built a big pond for storing excessive water, some people used to sell water from that pond. In addition to that pond there was a well far from Mecca about a mile and half from Mecca on the road called “Borka” that well was dubbed “well of Al-Zahed”, also there was a populated mosque, water carriers used to sell water to pilgrims from that well.
Mecca’s weather is too hot, that was my forth trip to the holy city from the beginning of Rajab in the year 442 to the twenty of that month; I was staying close to the holy city.
I told hereinbefore that Kaaba is located inside the holy mosque which is in Mecca, the length of the mosque is from East to West, and its width is from North to South, corners of the mosque look like circular shape, the longest one that is between Abraham’s gate to Bani Hashim’s gate is about fifty meters, the width of the mosque starts from Al-Nadwa gate at North and Safa gate at South and the distance is around six hundred meters. The holy mosque is surrounded by three opened galleries containing a hundred and eighty four marble pillars.
The holy mosque has eighteen doors, four of them towards East, they are as follows:
Prophet’s door at the Northern corner that attaches to three opened galleries, and another door at the Southern corner is called Prophet’s door as well, the distance between those two doors is two hundred meters, this door is connected to two opened galleries.
At the outside of this door drug sellers’ market is located, including Prophet’s house, and from this particular door people enter the mosque in order to perform their prayers. After that door there is Ali’s door also that is located on the Eastern wall. Ali’s door connected to three opened galleries, after this door there is a minaret near Safa and Marwa, this minaret is one four minarets near Bani Hashim’s door that mentioned previously.
On the Southern wall, that is the length of the mosque, there are seven doors, the first door near the corner, it is half circulated and connected to two opened galleries, and at the Western corner there is another door connected to two opened galleries, after that there is Safa door connected to five opened galleries, the central one is the biggest, with two small opened galleries beside it.
The Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) crossed this door when he was heading for Safa for prayer; the threshold of the central opened gallery is a big white stone, this stone was black color, but when Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) put his blessed foot on it his footprint mixed with the black color then its color changed to white, his fingers indicate towards the entrance of the mosque, some of pilgrims put their cheeks on that footprint while others put their feet on the footprint of Prophet (PBUH) seeking blessings. I personally see that putting cheek is more acceptable.
After Safa door there is another one called Towa door connected to two opened galleries, then there is dates sellers’ door which is connected to two opened galleries also and Al-Maamel door, and in front of that door there is Abu Jahal’s residential house which has turned to a toilette recently.
On the Western wall that is the width of the holy mosque, there are three doors, Orwa door which connected to two opened galleries, at the center of this corner there is Abraham’s door which connected to three opened galleries, on the Northern wall which is the length of the mosque there are four doors.
On the Western corner there is Waseet door which is connected to one opened gallery, after that at the center of the Northern corner there is Nadwa door which is connected to two opened galleries, then Moshawerah door connected to one opened gallery, at the Northern East corner of the mosque there is Bani Shaiba door and the holy Kaaba that centers the holy mosque.
Kaaba has a square shape its length starts from North to south, while its width goes from East to West, the length of Kaaba is around thirty four meters and its width is about thirty two meters, the door of Kaaba is towards East. An individual that is heading towards Kaaba shall see the Iraqi corner on his right side and the black stone corner on his left side. The Western southern corner is dubbed the Yamani while the Northern Western corner is called Al-Shami.
The black stone is located at a corner of a high wall; it is a big stone away of Kaaba about eight meters, this distance id dubbed as Al-Moltazem, this stone is high from the ground by eight meters or more.
A portrait of Kaaba’s door:
Kaaba’s door contains two shutters of hard wood, width of each shutter is around two meters, and therefore the width of the door is around four meters, the door is adorned with silver writings, it also carries some hand work of inlaying, all writings gilt and silver, you could the following divine verse:
“The most important shrine established for the people is the one in Becca; a blessed beacon for all the people”.
There are two big silver rings at the door of Kaaba, these two rings were sent from Ghaznin, pilgrims’ hands would never reach them, also there are two silver rings but smaller in size, and an individual could touch them easily. Kaaba’s door is being locked by a big silver padlock that joins the two shutters together.
Kaaba’s interior description:
Thickness of the wall of Kaaba is around one meter, the ground is covered by white marble, and there are three places of seclusion, one of them in front the door and the two others on both sided towards South. The ceiling is made from wood, there are three pillars of hard wood but the forth one is a circular one, from North side there is a stony sheet of red marble covers a part of the ground, it was said that Prophet Muhammad performed his prayer on it.
Kaaba’s walls are being covered by colored marble, and at the Western side there are six silver prayer niches attached to the wall by nails, this wall is higher than the ground by three meters. Above all this there is a marble that reaches the ceiling, it carries various inscriptions. Four walls are mostly covered by gold, and as I mentioned before there are three places of seclusion, one of them is at Iraqi corner, and the second is at Shami corner while the third one is at Yamane corner.
At each corner there are two sheets of wood attached to the wall by silver nails, these sheets of wood are remains of Noah’s ship, and length of each piece of wood is around five meters while the width is one meter only. Behind the black stone there is a place of seclusion covered by red silk garment, when you would like to leave Kaaba there is on the right side a square corner, each side of it is around three meters.
There is a silver ladder takes you to the surface of Kaaba, and a silver door called mercy’s door (Babb Al-Rahmah), it is being locked by a silver padlock, on the surface of Kaaba there is another ordinary door, while the surface itself is covered with wood and red silk garment, on the top of the Kaaba’s door there is a writing carries the name of Egypt’s Sultan Al-Moez who captured Mecca city from Abbasid Caliphs.
There are four other big silver tableaus attached to the wall by silver nails, each one of them bears the name of one of Egypt’s Sultan who sent that tableau.
In the middle of pillars there are three lamps, but behind Kaaba is covered by Yamane marble, and at each corner of it there is an aperture with a mirror that illuminates Kaaba and prevents rain water to penetrate in it. Kaaba’s gutter is located to the north and its length is about three meters, there are golden writings on the gutter.
All Kaaba’s curtains are white color, and at its four corners there are prayer niches sewed with golden threads. On each wall there are three prayer niches, the biggest one is at the middle, that means there are twelve prayer niches on the four walls.
To the North of Kaaba there is a meter and half wall, it has a circular shape and far from Kaaba about fifteen meters, the ground of this spot is covered by colored marble, this spot is called “the place of Ishmael”.
Gutter’s water pours in the place of Ishmael; there is a sheet of green stone under that gutter, it resembles a prayer niche, and subjected to rain water.
Abraham’s shrine is located towards East; it is a stone represents Abraham’s feet and being preserved in a box covered by silver sheets, tied to chains and stones with two padlocks, the distance between Kaaba and the shrine of Abraham (PBUH) is around thirty meters.
Zam Zam well is located towards East, and it is about fifty meters away of black stone corner, its water is salty but drinkable. That well is covered by sheets of white marble, from East side of the well there is a site called Hajj water carrying (sekayat Al-Hajj), to the East of that site there is another square spot with three domes, it is called “oil storage”, it contains candles and lamps surrounding Kaaba from all sides, this group is called torches (Mashael), The distance from torches to Kaaba is around hundred meters, which is called place of circumambulation, the total of buildings in the courtyard of the holy mosque in Mecca is three, a part of Kaaba, Zam Zam, sekayat Al-Hajj and oil storage, around the holy mosque near the wall there are different boxes for pilgrims from Morocco, Egypt, Sham, Khorasan and other Muslim’s countries.
About twelve miles away from Mecca there is a place called “Borkah” in which the governor of Mecca and his soldier reside there, this place is full of water and dates trees, and its size is around thirty six square miles. I personally stayed in this place since the beginning of lunar month of Rajab in which Kaaba’s door is being opened every morning when sun rises.
Description of the procedure applied in opening Kaaba’s door:
Key of Kaaba is at the possession of an Arab tribe called “Bani Shaibah”.
Those individuals used to receive their monthly salaries and other gifts from Sultan of Egypt; the head of the group holds the key of Kaaba in his hand accompanied by six persons, once they arrive at Kaaba another ten of pilgrims help them in carrying the ladder and put it near the door of Kaaba, at that moment the head of the group who is an old man ascends on that ladder and stands near the door, while two persons hurry to open curtains of the door, then the old man unlocks the door, once the door is opened all pilgrims rise their hands in praying and supplication.
That old man enters Kaaba in order to perform his prayer, while the other two persons hold door’s curtains, after that the old man comes out for oration and praising Prophet and his family (pbut). Then the old man and his companions stand on both sides of Kaaba paving the way for pilgrims to enter Kaaba and perform a prayer of two prostrations, the old man leaves the holy mosque and pilgrims perform noon prayers, according to my estimation their number was around seven hundred and twenty persons.
Yemenis’ pilgrims resembled Indians in their external appearances, they used to put on a wraparound, and lengthening their hair and beards, in addition to put on cloaks. It was said that Indians are from Yemenis’ origin. Kaaba’s door opens on Monday, Thursday and Friday only.
Al-Jaaranah:
It is located about twelve miles to the North of Mecca, Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and his soldiers put on ihram garment at that place on the sixteenth of Thee Al-Koadah prior to his departure to Mecca in order to perform Hajj rituals.
There are two wells at that place; one of them is Prophet’s well while the other belongs to Ali Ben Abby Taleb (PBUH), two wells have drinkable water while ten meters separate them. Near to these two wells there is a mountain and holes resemble pots, it was reported in history that Prophet (PBUH) kneaded flour in those holes, and a big number of Muslims did so.
There are numerous number of dates trees at that spot, in addition to a mountain, it was said that Bilal called for prayer from the top of that mountain. Following Bilal example, a lot of people called for prayer at the top of that mountain.
I covered nine hundred miles from Egypt to Mecca for Hajj season, while the distance from Mecca to Yemen is thirty six miles. Arafat is an area surrounded by low mountains; their height is no more than hills’ height.
In this area which size is around thirty six square miles there was a mosque built by Abraham (PBUH), what remained from that mosque was a tribune only, during prayer time an orator would ascend the tribune in order to deliver his sermon, and then he would call for prayer, prayer there would be two prostration the same as a traveler does, followed by another two prostrations, after that the orator would sit on a camel looking towards East.
By covering three miles there is a small stony mountain called “Mountain of mercy” (Jabal Al-Rahmah), everybody tries to ascend it asking almighty God assistance till sun set.
Here in Arafat a prince from Eden came at evening from that mountain to Arafat, he had substantial amount of money with him in order to fill some ponds he ordered to be built before, this prince built four domes at the top of Jabal Al-Rahmah filled with candles in order to illuminate during night and day. Candles’ lights could be seen from five miles away, it was said that governor of Mecca received some cash money from this prince in lieu of permitting him in building those domes!
On the ninth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" in the lunar year 442 I’m about to perform the forth Hajj. At sun set all pilgrims along with the orator came from Arafat, after they covered three miles they arrived at Mashaar Al-Hiram which is called Mozdalifah also. At this place there is a nice compartment for performing prayers; pilgrims gather pebbles for throwing them at Mina. On the eve of Eid (Grand Bairam) pilgrims spend their night in Mozdalifah, just as sun rises on the tenth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" pilgrims head for Mina in order to offer their sacrifices. There is a big mosque at Mina is called Al-Khaif, on this particular day neither Eid prayer does not take place nor its sermon, all pilgrims gather in Mina for throwing pebbles.
On the twelfth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" all pilgrims return to Mecca and from there they head towards their countries.
After I accomplished Hajj rituals, I hired a camel from Mecca to Ihsaa area; I was told that it would cover the distance from Mecca to Ihsaa within thirteen days, I paid farewell to the old house (Kaaba), and on Friday the ninetieth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" year 442 we headed towards a meadow that was twenty one miles away from Mecca.
Naser Khosrow’s journey started from Marw through to Tabriz, Ikhlat, Miafarkeen, Saida, Tyre and finally to Jerusalem. From the last city, Naser headed towards Mecca and Medina then he came back from there to Jerusalem, and later went to Egypt and returned once more to Mecca where he remained there for six months, and finally he returned to Iran via sea.
On Tuesday, the twenty sixth of Jomadi Al-Akhirah in the lunar year 444, Naser Khosrow returned to Balakh, after a journey lasted for six years and seven months and twenty two days, that journey was full of precious notices about his daily seeing and hearings.
Naser Khosrow’s journey is a book that includes precious information about Islamic world at the first half of the fifth lunar century. The following report relates to Mecca and Medina only.
Naser Khosrow’s dilemma:
Abu Moein Hamid Al-Dean Naser Ben Khosrow Ghobadiyani says:
“My profession was writing only, in addition to that I was one of the persons that had authority in dealing with Sultan’s income and in charge of the royal court, I remained at that post for some time, I was well-known among people”.
At the last Rabeea in the lunar year 437, when Abu Suleiman Jafri Ben Mikyal was the prince (the ruler) of Khorasan, I left Marw heading for fifth Marw Al-Ward villages, that day Castor reached Jupiter, I heard that whenever this phenomenon occurs almighty God responds positively to people’s requests, I went to a sacred place where I performed my prayer and asked my God to show me the right path.
When I came to my companions one of them recited a poem in Persian language, I remembered a poem then I asked him to read it for us, he wrote on a paper asking me to the poem, suddenly he explained that poem prior to handing him the paper that included the poem, I became optimistic about that incident, and said to myself that almighty God had achieved my request.
I left that place heading for Jozjanan where I remained for a full month, drinking dates’ water. The grand Prophet (PBUH) said: “Tell the truth even against you”!
One night, I saw someone in the dream telling me that: “This drink you are addicted to shall cost you your mind, you remain awake would be for your good!
I replied: All wise scholars couldn’t find a way better than this to curb worlds grieves and sorrows! He replied: There is no relief and comfort in the unconscious, a wise man can not show people the path to unconscious, but he is asked to encourage them to what increases mind and intelligence.
I said: How could I attain that? He replied: Whoever works hard would gain what he is looking for! Then he pointed towards Kiblah and remained silent!!
When I woke up I was remembering the entire dream’s details, I talked to myself saying: I woke up from last night’s sleep, now I have to wake up from forty years’ sleep!
I decided not to have any rest unless I perform my duties and deeds in a very sincere and good intention.
On Thursday the sixth of Jamadee Al-Akhirah in the lunar year 437, I took a shower and headed for the mosque in order to perform my prayer, I supplicated to the almighty God asking him assistance in performing what is a duty upon me, and refraining from prohibited deeds as he the almighty ordained.
From there I went to Shboorghan where I spent the night in Baryab village, and from there I chose the way to Samankan, Talikan and Marw Al-Ward.
Later, I went to Marw asking to accept my resignation from my post saying:
I intend to go to the sacred Kiblah, and then I paid all my debts deciding to ignore everything in this materialistic world, except what was essential for my journey. On the twenty third of Shaaban I left there heading for Naisapoor, from Marw I reached Sarakhs, I crossed around ninety miles; the distance from Sarakhs to Naisapoor was a hundred and twenty miles.
During that journey, Naser Khosrow went to Mecca several times, his first trip to Mecca started at Jerusalem, he said:
I reached Jerusalem from there, and from that holy city I accompanied a number of individuals who crossed that distance to Hijaz on foot, our guide was a forbearing and a good peripatetic man, his name was Abu Baker Al-Hamadani. On the first half of Thou Al-Keadah of the lunar year 438, I left Jerusalem.
On the third day we arrived at a place called Arar, from there we reached another location, and within ten days we arrived at Mecca in a year that it had received no Hajj caravan from any side of it due to the lack of food supplies in the holy city. We resided in the alley of spice dealers in front of the Prophet’s gate, on Monday we were at Arafat. When I came from Arafat, I stopped two days in Mecca then I went to Jerusalem in my way back to Sham.
On the fifth day of Moharram in the lunar year 439, we arrived at Jerusalem, I did not explain about Mecca and Medina, because I would like to concentrate on the last Hajj journey.
Naser Khosrow went back to Jerusalem and from there he headed for Cairo in Egypt.
“At the beginning of Thee Al-Kaadah I left Egypt, and on the eighth of that lunar month I arrived at Kolzom, from here we embarked the ship, after fifteen days we arrived at a city called Jar, that was on the twenty two of that lunar month, from there, after four days of traveling we reached the city of the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), it is a city adjacent to the desert, its soil was salty and wet, with shortage of water, it had mane palm trees, and the holy Kaaba located to the South of it, Prophet’s mosque resembled the holy mosque in Mecca, Prophet’s grave was located near mosque’s tribune to the north of who stands towards Kaaba, whenever the orator mentioned Prophet’s name he would indicate towards the grave which is a pentagonal house and its walls attached to five pillars of the mosque.
Between the grave and the tribune there was a place covered by marble and dubbed a meadow, people used to say it is a meadow of the Paradise quoting what the Prophet (PBUH) said: Between my grave and my tribune is a meadow of Paradise’s meadows”.
Shies say that Fatima’s grave is located inside her father’s shrine. The mosque had a door towards South of the city where there was a desert and the grave of Hamzah Ben Abdul Motaleb (may God be pleased with him), that site was dubbed as the grave of martyrs.
We spent two days in Medina, due to shortage of time we moved towards East side of the city, there was a mountain and a small valley called Johfah, that place was rendezvous (Mikat) for visitors from Egypt, Sham and Morocco.
At that place visitors would put on Hajj garment, it was said that before Hajj season there were many visitors at that site and suddenly a flood came and killed all of them, for that particular reason this place called Johfah.
The distance between Mecca and Medina is around three hundred miles, but it was smooth, we managed in crossing it on Sunday the sixth of the lunar month Thee Al-Hojah, we arrived at Mecca and resided at Al-Safa gate.
At that particular year, there was drought in Mecca, ten kilograms of wheat was around one Naisapoori Dinar, and all those who were residing on the skirts of Mecca left it and nobody would come to the holy city.
On Wednesday we started Hajj rituals in Arafat by the help of the almighty God, we remained two days in Mecca, a huge number of Mecca’s inhabitants left it seeking refuge and food supplies in other parts of the desert. I would leave Hajj description and Mecca’s conditions to another opportunity, at the other time we remained in Mecca for six months.
From there, Naser Khosrow returned to Egypt, he describes the drought at those years:
“At the lunar month of Rajab in the year 440, Sultan was informed about the drought of that year, and dispatching pilgrims to Hijaz would be risk, at that year no pilgrim went to Hijaz, although it was Sultan’s duty to secure pilgrims and send them to Hajj, but he had his excuses.
At that particular year, there was a person called Kathy Abdullah, he was in Sham, I accompanied him in our way to Kolzom. That time our ship arrived at Jar that was on the twenty fifth of Thee Al-Keada, and Hajj season was so near, the price for a camel was five Dinar, we hurried up to catch the season.
On the eighth of Thee Al-Hijah, we arrived at Mecca with assistance from almighty God, we performed Hajj rituals.
A very big caravan came from Morocco that year, at the gate of Medina Arabs asked some of them to guard the city after they came back from Mecca, a battle erupted between two sides, in that battle more than two thousands of Moroccan pilgrims died, only thirty pilgrims managed to ran away and reach their country. In that Hajj season there were pilgrims from Khorasan, they headed for Sham and Egypt, and from there they reached Medina. On the sixth of Thee Al-Hijah they were off Arafat about three hundred miles, with this regard they said:
“Who could take us to Mecca within three days? We would give forty Dinar for each pilgrim, Bedouins tied them on the camels, they reached Arafat within two and half days, two of them died while four remained alive but in very bad condition. Later, those four pilgrims performed Hajj rituals and returned to Sham, I went back to Egypt because I had some books there, I did not intend to leave that country.
At that year, the governor of Medina came to Egypt, I was with him in the same ship, we reached Kolzom and from there we headed towards Egypt.
Naser Khosrow’s return to Mecca after his visit to Egypt:
I shall explain how I came to Mecca, may God preserve it, from Egypt.
I performed Eid’s prayer in Cairo, and then I moved to the upper highland of Egypt by sea on Tuesday the fourteenth of the lunar month Thee Al-Hijah in the year 441. At that voyage Naser Khosrow crossed Akhmeem, Caws, Aswan and Eathab till he eventually reached Jeddah, explaining what concerns Mecca and the holy Kaaba.
“Jeddah is a big city with well-fortified walls, it is located on the sea and its inhabitants around five thousand individuals, it contains flourishing markets.
The Kiblah of its grand mosque is towards the East, there are no buildings at the suburbs of the city except Prophet’s mosque and two gates one of them towards Mecca at the East and the other towards West on the sea.
If somebody wanted to go to Yemen from the sea shore, he would have to cross around hundred and fifty miles. And if he went to the North he would arrive at Jar city. Jeddah lacks trees and green lands, what it needs of food supplies would reach it from different villages. Distance between Mecca and Jeddah is not far.
The governor of Jeddah and Medina at that time was Taj Al-Maali Ben Abby Al-Fotooh; he was so kind with me that he exempted me from paying taxes. When I was approaching Muslim gate, he wrote to the officials in Mecca asking them not to charge me due to my righteousness as he believed.
Next Friday we left Jeddah, I reached Mecca on Sunday at the end of the lunar month Jamadi Al-Akherah, on the first day of Rajab huge numbers of visitors pour in Mecca from Hijaz and Yemen for performing omra it is an especial season, like Eid of Ramadan. They come for Hajj also, due to the short distance and the easiness of the path.
Mecca, God bless it, is a city surrounded by high mountains, the nearest mountain to the city is Abu Kobais Mountain; it looks like a dome and is located to the East of the city, whoever is in the holy mosque in Mecca in January, and shall see the sun rise from the head of that mountain.
The head of that mountain looks like a stony protruding stick, it was said in history that Abraham (PBUH) made the head of the mountain like that. The holy mosque in Mecca and the adjacent markets and alleys are surrounded by high walls with various gates; the city lacks trees, although there are some high trees near the main gate of the holy mosque that is called Abraham’s gate.
To the East of the holy mosque, there is a big market from North to South, the entrance of that market is near Abu Kobais mountain, at the versant of the mountain there is a very small hill that called Safa, a big number of visitors and pilgrims came here for prayer and supplication, they call this place “Safa and Marwa”. The end of that market located at the North, near Marwa, there are a number of residential houses there, and people ran in that market, from beginning till the end of it, it is an act of omra rituals.
Those who are coming to Mecca from long distances for performing omra rituals have to put on omra garment at a site which is far away about one and half mile from Mecca, of course pilgrims and visitors must put on garment at one of mosques there. After that act, a pilgrim heads towards Mecca repeating the following version: “We comply with your order, there shall be no partner with you, all boon and blessing is from you”.
Those who are in Mecca and intend to perform omra must go to a site that is a mile and half away from the holy mosque and put on omra garment then heads for Mecca, after a pilgrim enters the holy mosque he must circumambulate (Tawaf) for seven rounds, starting from the corner where the black stone is located in contrast to the movement of a watch, then he performs two kneels behind the shrine of Abraham (PBUH), after performing Tawaf, pilgrims head to Zam Zam well in order to have some water of it and to wash their faces, then they leave the holy mosque to perform endeavor (Saai) between Safa and Marwa, there is a market between these two small mountains that is around fifty steps length, Prophet (PBUH) did so during Hajj season.
He ordered Muslims to do so. There two minarets near the market, endeavor is four rounds from Safa to Marwa and three rounds from Marwa to Safa, and therefore the total is seven rounds, during Saai pilgrims read some prayers. When a pilgrim accomplishes his Saai there are some barber shops for shaving pilgrims’ hair in order to be free from ihram. This market is called drug sellers’ market; it contains some nice shops and buildings. There two public baths in Mecca city, their grounds are covered with green stone.
According to my estimation Mecca’s inhabitants are around two thousands individuals, a part of the visitors, in those circumstances the city was experiencing a very bad drought, and the price for forty kilograms of wheat was around one Moroccan Dinar.
In Mecca city, there were residential houses for visitors from Khorasan, Iraq and other Muslim nation, but most of those houses were ruined, Baghdad’s Caliphs built spacious buildings in Mecca, when we arrived there some of those buildings were demolished.
There are wells in Mecca but their water is salty and not potable, for that purpose big ponds were built in order to gather rain water, the price for each pond was ten thousands Dinar, those ponds were empty of water when we were in Mecca. A prince of Eden brought ground water to Mecca, which cost him a substantial amount of money, that water was used for irrigation in Arafat.
In order to save Mecca from flood officials built a dam, and they built a big pond for storing excessive water, some people used to sell water from that pond. In addition to that pond there was a well far from Mecca about a mile and half from Mecca on the road called “Borka” that well was dubbed “well of Al-Zahed”, also there was a populated mosque, water carriers used to sell water to pilgrims from that well.
Mecca’s weather is too hot, that was my forth trip to the holy city from the beginning of Rajab in the year 442 to the twenty of that month; I was staying close to the holy city.
I told hereinbefore that Kaaba is located inside the holy mosque which is in Mecca, the length of the mosque is from East to West, and its width is from North to South, corners of the mosque look like circular shape, the longest one that is between Abraham’s gate to Bani Hashim’s gate is about fifty meters, the width of the mosque starts from Al-Nadwa gate at North and Safa gate at South and the distance is around six hundred meters. The holy mosque is surrounded by three opened galleries containing a hundred and eighty four marble pillars.
The holy mosque has eighteen doors, four of them towards East, they are as follows:
Prophet’s door at the Northern corner that attaches to three opened galleries, and another door at the Southern corner is called Prophet’s door as well, the distance between those two doors is two hundred meters, this door is connected to two opened galleries.
At the outside of this door drug sellers’ market is located, including Prophet’s house, and from this particular door people enter the mosque in order to perform their prayers. After that door there is Ali’s door also that is located on the Eastern wall. Ali’s door connected to three opened galleries, after this door there is a minaret near Safa and Marwa, this minaret is one four minarets near Bani Hashim’s door that mentioned previously.
On the Southern wall, that is the length of the mosque, there are seven doors, the first door near the corner, it is half circulated and connected to two opened galleries, and at the Western corner there is another door connected to two opened galleries, after that there is Safa door connected to five opened galleries, the central one is the biggest, with two small opened galleries beside it.
The Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) crossed this door when he was heading for Safa for prayer; the threshold of the central opened gallery is a big white stone, this stone was black color, but when Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) put his blessed foot on it his footprint mixed with the black color then its color changed to white, his fingers indicate towards the entrance of the mosque, some of pilgrims put their cheeks on that footprint while others put their feet on the footprint of Prophet (PBUH) seeking blessings. I personally see that putting cheek is more acceptable.
After Safa door there is another one called Towa door connected to two opened galleries, then there is dates sellers’ door which is connected to two opened galleries also and Al-Maamel door, and in front of that door there is Abu Jahal’s residential house which has turned to a toilette recently.
On the Western wall that is the width of the holy mosque, there are three doors, Orwa door which connected to two opened galleries, at the center of this corner there is Abraham’s door which connected to three opened galleries, on the Northern wall which is the length of the mosque there are four doors.
On the Western corner there is Waseet door which is connected to one opened gallery, after that at the center of the Northern corner there is Nadwa door which is connected to two opened galleries, then Moshawerah door connected to one opened gallery, at the Northern East corner of the mosque there is Bani Shaiba door and the holy Kaaba that centers the holy mosque.
Kaaba has a square shape its length starts from North to south, while its width goes from East to West, the length of Kaaba is around thirty four meters and its width is about thirty two meters, the door of Kaaba is towards East. An individual that is heading towards Kaaba shall see the Iraqi corner on his right side and the black stone corner on his left side. The Western southern corner is dubbed the Yamani while the Northern Western corner is called Al-Shami.
The black stone is located at a corner of a high wall; it is a big stone away of Kaaba about eight meters, this distance id dubbed as Al-Moltazem, this stone is high from the ground by eight meters or more.
A portrait of Kaaba’s door:
Kaaba’s door contains two shutters of hard wood, width of each shutter is around two meters, and therefore the width of the door is around four meters, the door is adorned with silver writings, it also carries some hand work of inlaying, all writings gilt and silver, you could the following divine verse:
“The most important shrine established for the people is the one in Becca; a blessed beacon for all the people”.
There are two big silver rings at the door of Kaaba, these two rings were sent from Ghaznin, pilgrims’ hands would never reach them, also there are two silver rings but smaller in size, and an individual could touch them easily. Kaaba’s door is being locked by a big silver padlock that joins the two shutters together.
Kaaba’s interior description:
Thickness of the wall of Kaaba is around one meter, the ground is covered by white marble, and there are three places of seclusion, one of them in front the door and the two others on both sided towards South. The ceiling is made from wood, there are three pillars of hard wood but the forth one is a circular one, from North side there is a stony sheet of red marble covers a part of the ground, it was said that Prophet Muhammad performed his prayer on it.
Kaaba’s walls are being covered by colored marble, and at the Western side there are six silver prayer niches attached to the wall by nails, this wall is higher than the ground by three meters. Above all this there is a marble that reaches the ceiling, it carries various inscriptions. Four walls are mostly covered by gold, and as I mentioned before there are three places of seclusion, one of them is at Iraqi corner, and the second is at Shami corner while the third one is at Yamane corner.
At each corner there are two sheets of wood attached to the wall by silver nails, these sheets of wood are remains of Noah’s ship, and length of each piece of wood is around five meters while the width is one meter only. Behind the black stone there is a place of seclusion covered by red silk garment, when you would like to leave Kaaba there is on the right side a square corner, each side of it is around three meters.
There is a silver ladder takes you to the surface of Kaaba, and a silver door called mercy’s door (Babb Al-Rahmah), it is being locked by a silver padlock, on the surface of Kaaba there is another ordinary door, while the surface itself is covered with wood and red silk garment, on the top of the Kaaba’s door there is a writing carries the name of Egypt’s Sultan Al-Moez who captured Mecca city from Abbasid Caliphs.
There are four other big silver tableaus attached to the wall by silver nails, each one of them bears the name of one of Egypt’s Sultan who sent that tableau.
In the middle of pillars there are three lamps, but behind Kaaba is covered by Yamane marble, and at each corner of it there is an aperture with a mirror that illuminates Kaaba and prevents rain water to penetrate in it. Kaaba’s gutter is located to the north and its length is about three meters, there are golden writings on the gutter.
All Kaaba’s curtains are white color, and at its four corners there are prayer niches sewed with golden threads. On each wall there are three prayer niches, the biggest one is at the middle, that means there are twelve prayer niches on the four walls.
To the North of Kaaba there is a meter and half wall, it has a circular shape and far from Kaaba about fifteen meters, the ground of this spot is covered by colored marble, this spot is called “the place of Ishmael”.
Gutter’s water pours in the place of Ishmael; there is a sheet of green stone under that gutter, it resembles a prayer niche, and subjected to rain water.
Abraham’s shrine is located towards East; it is a stone represents Abraham’s feet and being preserved in a box covered by silver sheets, tied to chains and stones with two padlocks, the distance between Kaaba and the shrine of Abraham (PBUH) is around thirty meters.
Zam Zam well is located towards East, and it is about fifty meters away of black stone corner, its water is salty but drinkable. That well is covered by sheets of white marble, from East side of the well there is a site called Hajj water carrying (sekayat Al-Hajj), to the East of that site there is another square spot with three domes, it is called “oil storage”, it contains candles and lamps surrounding Kaaba from all sides, this group is called torches (Mashael), The distance from torches to Kaaba is around hundred meters, which is called place of circumambulation, the total of buildings in the courtyard of the holy mosque in Mecca is three, a part of Kaaba, Zam Zam, sekayat Al-Hajj and oil storage, around the holy mosque near the wall there are different boxes for pilgrims from Morocco, Egypt, Sham, Khorasan and other Muslim’s countries.
About twelve miles away from Mecca there is a place called “Borkah” in which the governor of Mecca and his soldier reside there, this place is full of water and dates trees, and its size is around thirty six square miles. I personally stayed in this place since the beginning of lunar month of Rajab in which Kaaba’s door is being opened every morning when sun rises.
Description of the procedure applied in opening Kaaba’s door:
Key of Kaaba is at the possession of an Arab tribe called “Bani Shaibah”.
Those individuals used to receive their monthly salaries and other gifts from Sultan of Egypt; the head of the group holds the key of Kaaba in his hand accompanied by six persons, once they arrive at Kaaba another ten of pilgrims help them in carrying the ladder and put it near the door of Kaaba, at that moment the head of the group who is an old man ascends on that ladder and stands near the door, while two persons hurry to open curtains of the door, then the old man unlocks the door, once the door is opened all pilgrims rise their hands in praying and supplication.
That old man enters Kaaba in order to perform his prayer, while the other two persons hold door’s curtains, after that the old man comes out for oration and praising Prophet and his family (pbut). Then the old man and his companions stand on both sides of Kaaba paving the way for pilgrims to enter Kaaba and perform a prayer of two prostrations, the old man leaves the holy mosque and pilgrims perform noon prayers, according to my estimation their number was around seven hundred and twenty persons.
Yemenis’ pilgrims resembled Indians in their external appearances, they used to put on a wraparound, and lengthening their hair and beards, in addition to put on cloaks. It was said that Indians are from Yemenis’ origin. Kaaba’s door opens on Monday, Thursday and Friday only.
Al-Jaaranah:
It is located about twelve miles to the North of Mecca, Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and his soldiers put on ihram garment at that place on the sixteenth of Thee Al-Koadah prior to his departure to Mecca in order to perform Hajj rituals.
There are two wells at that place; one of them is Prophet’s well while the other belongs to Ali Ben Abby Taleb (PBUH), two wells have drinkable water while ten meters separate them. Near to these two wells there is a mountain and holes resemble pots, it was reported in history that Prophet (PBUH) kneaded flour in those holes, and a big number of Muslims did so.
There are numerous number of dates trees at that spot, in addition to a mountain, it was said that Bilal called for prayer from the top of that mountain. Following Bilal example, a lot of people called for prayer at the top of that mountain.
I covered nine hundred miles from Egypt to Mecca for Hajj season, while the distance from Mecca to Yemen is thirty six miles. Arafat is an area surrounded by low mountains; their height is no more than hills’ height.
In this area which size is around thirty six square miles there was a mosque built by Abraham (PBUH), what remained from that mosque was a tribune only, during prayer time an orator would ascend the tribune in order to deliver his sermon, and then he would call for prayer, prayer there would be two prostration the same as a traveler does, followed by another two prostrations, after that the orator would sit on a camel looking towards East.
By covering three miles there is a small stony mountain called “Mountain of mercy” (Jabal Al-Rahmah), everybody tries to ascend it asking almighty God assistance till sun set.
Here in Arafat a prince from Eden came at evening from that mountain to Arafat, he had substantial amount of money with him in order to fill some ponds he ordered to be built before, this prince built four domes at the top of Jabal Al-Rahmah filled with candles in order to illuminate during night and day. Candles’ lights could be seen from five miles away, it was said that governor of Mecca received some cash money from this prince in lieu of permitting him in building those domes!
On the ninth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" in the lunar year 442 I’m about to perform the forth Hajj. At sun set all pilgrims along with the orator came from Arafat, after they covered three miles they arrived at Mashaar Al-Hiram which is called Mozdalifah also. At this place there is a nice compartment for performing prayers; pilgrims gather pebbles for throwing them at Mina. On the eve of Eid (Grand Bairam) pilgrims spend their night in Mozdalifah, just as sun rises on the tenth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" pilgrims head for Mina in order to offer their sacrifices. There is a big mosque at Mina is called Al-Khaif, on this particular day neither Eid prayer does not take place nor its sermon, all pilgrims gather in Mina for throwing pebbles.
On the twelfth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" all pilgrims return to Mecca and from there they head towards their countries.
After I accomplished Hajj rituals, I hired a camel from Mecca to Ihsaa area; I was told that it would cover the distance from Mecca to Ihsaa within thirteen days, I paid farewell to the old house (Kaaba), and on Friday the ninetieth of "Dhu al-Hijjah" year 442 we headed towards a meadow that was twenty one miles away from Mecca.
